Aloe Driscoll

Writing about surf trips, ocean conservation, and Santa Cruz lifestyle by Aloe Driscoll.

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ecoboards

Conscious Construction

Photo: Sarah Lee.

Surfboard Manufacturers Driving Change

Originally published in Adventure Sports Journal.

A surfer’s board represents the ultimate tool for communing with nature, and conjures images of azure blue waves curling across rainbows of reef. However, this emblem of environmentalism is tainted by a dirty secret.

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June 26, 2019June 27, 2019Aloe Driscoll Leave a comment
California ecoboards epoxy surfboards Firewire polyester surfboards woolight

aloedriscoll

Disciple of water🙏
Salty🏄‍♀️🌊
Fresh 🏊‍♀️💦
Frozen🏂❄️

The last swell at Asu was beautiful and terrifying The last swell at Asu was beautiful and terrifying. Cleanup sets, sharp reef, tricky barrels, and harsh sun were abundant. A few gifted surfers put on a show and the rest of us tried to survive. I chose my waves carefully, surfed cautiously, and kept a close eye on the horizon. Relieved that my 6’4 and I made it through without a scratch and happy to have gotten a few friendly ones 🙏🌊😮‍💨
Mission complete! Dog adoption, surf strike, and E Mission complete! Dog adoption, surf strike, and East Cape adventure with @alli_jaeger and @nickjreilly. These two are rescuing street dogs in Baja, giving them access to much needed care, providing basic training and finding them forever homes. Follow them @expedition.ola for a daily dose of heartwarming stories about former street dogs living their best life on the beach 🐶

A couple months ago I decided to adopt one of their rescue dogs, a sweet 3 year old terrier named Mateo. I requested time off of work and booked a flight to Cabo to hang out with Nick and Alli for a few days while picking him up. A couple weeks out, a solid south swell appeared on the forecast, so I brought surfboards too! I spent five days camping on the East Cape of Baja with Nick and Alli, hanging out with their six rescue dogs, surfing, and enjoying VIP treatment, like poke bowls made with yellowtail they caught from their boat🤩 Nick prepared every meal from scratch, including butter chicken and homemade naan. Alli did an incredible job documenting Mateo’s story and taking beautiful photos. And the waves delivered! 

When Poncho, one of their other rescue dogs, found a forever home, I agreed to take both Mateo and Poncho back to California. It was quite the flight with two dogs and surfboards, but we made it! I’m so happy that Mateo is adjusting well to his new life. I adore him 🥰 Thanks so much Nick and Alli for an incredible trip, next level hospitality, and rescuing my new best friend 🐕

A shout out to @tessatimmons_  @kyle_buthman @shawndollar for helping me get prepped. Super fun running into @mexicomat @cheraslor @tobytman.dp as well! It really is a small world when you’re a surfer 🌊

📷: @expedition.ola
April 1 line at Kirkwood. A special day not only b April 1 line at Kirkwood. A special day not only because of late season snowfall, but also because it marked exactly 10 years since I embarked on a solo surf pilgrimage hitchhiking and taking the bus through Central America, an experience that transformed me, and revealed who I am at my core. Rather than full circle, it feels like I’ve come 180. From warm waves to cold snow, still mirroring the same lines and the same stoke. Life is different now than it was then. I’m not as free to chase every single swell and storm, I have a few more wrinkles and cadaver tendons in both knees. I’ve also accomplished goals that I thought were impossible on April 1, 2015: completing the manuscript of my first book, owning a house in Santa Cruz and land in Mexico. If the version of me that embarked on that trip 10 years ago could have seen who I am now, I like to think she’d be proud. I’m sure proud of her 🥰
Thanks @stokedaerial for the video @xohaleywilson for being my shred sister @kacychatfield @theadventuresofllh @djwyze1 @samuelkwenger and everyone else I got to share this special day with 🫶❄️
What a trip🇲🇽 Bought land. Finished editing What a trip🇲🇽 Bought land. Finished editing my book. Got waves. Managed to find WiFi and work. Mexico is magic. For the past two weeks, I’ve felt possessed by a creative spirit, as if it’s whispering in my ear what to write. All I need to do now is get it published! 📖❤️🌊
I have a confession to make. I rode a midlength an I have a confession to make. I rode a midlength and I liked it 😂 6’6 Stoker V-Machine was super fun 🏄‍♀️🤙🇲🇽
Indonesia is a humbling place to surf. Tantalizing Indonesia is a humbling place to surf. Tantalizing waves churn across shallow reef. Boards snap, skin bleeds, lips burn. Perfect barrels demand perfection: I could have pulled in deeper, should have made it out of that ONE. Every night on the boat, we all shared our highs and lows. My high for the trip was being with an awesome crew of Aussies and my surf wife @surf_snow_repeat_ifbbpro. My low was when my board hit me in the head and I couldn’t surf for two days. Grateful that I made it home in one piece, even if my boards did not. And stoked to get some fantastic waves!
Wahoo! 🎣 @martosa1 reeling in the big one on @p Wahoo! 🎣 @martosa1 reeling in the big one on @pulsesurfcharters
Hoping for a whole lot of hacks and shacks over th Hoping for a whole lot of hacks and shacks over the next two weeks in Indonesia🤞The waves there always  motivate me to step up my game🏄‍♀️ I’ll be on a boat with no reception, here’s a couple shots from previous trips in the meantime 😎
10 year anniversary of surfing this wave. I love t 10 year anniversary of surfing this wave. I love the friends it’s led me to make, the life changes it’s seen me through, and the fact that I can still surf it pretty well after surgery on both knees🙏❤️🌊🇲🇽
Love this place, love this wave 🇲🇽 Thanks @l Love this place, love this wave 🇲🇽 Thanks @lacasitasaladita for lending me your board 🏄‍♀️ and @wavechasersperalta for the video 🎥
When seals attack ⚔️ This seal started followi When seals attack ⚔️ This seal started following me and @rwurbina as soon as we got in the water to go spearfishing. Sure enough, the moment I snagged a rockfish the seal swooped in to collect tax 💰 Luckily it only got the tail fin and none of the good meat 🐟 Thanks @rwurbina for the capture!!!
My niece Stevie and nephew Dylan, born August 12, My niece Stevie and nephew Dylan, born August 12, 2023. They had a rough start, but they rose to the challenge, and I’m happy to report that they are both healthy and at home, getting stronger every day. I watched Winnie for a few weeks while the twins got adjusted, and will always share a special bond with this smart, scrappy, and loyal little terrier. So much love here ❤️
Packed some solid ones (and a few barrels!) on my Packed some solid ones (and a few barrels!) on my 5’8 from @thirdworldsurfco🏄‍♀️I certainly did not expect double overhead waves in the Maldives and was surprised how easily the board handled them🙌 Custom artwork by Kaia and Solei…an Aloe plant of course🪴🩷💚
Dancing with nurse sharks🦈 This video got remov Dancing with nurse sharks🦈 This video got removed because the music isn’t allowed in Maldives👎 Reposting now that I’m home because it was a highlight of the trip🤩 Thanks Michael Amster for the video📷
9’6 hangtime single fin designed by Jason Kline 9’6 hangtime single fin designed by Jason Kline @thirdworldsurfco is the funnest longboard I have ever ridden and the first one I have ever gotten barreled on 🤩 Custom artwork by his daughters + my friends Kaia and Solei👯‍♀️ Fun fact…I met Jason when I first started surfing, have known his wife @soxele since they met and his daughters since they were born! Thanks @leviathan_jeff for connecting us all those years ago 🙏
Pretty stoked I brought the longboard after all 😎❤️👣
📹: @aliphoto_maldives
Maldives magic ✨🌊🏝️❤️ Maldives magic ✨🌊🏝️❤️
Earlier this year I took a break from surfing. I w Earlier this year I took a break from surfing. I was putting way too much pressure on myself and it wasn’t fun anymore. I brought small wave boards and low expectations to the Maldives, but the islands had other plans for me. The first day was double overhead and barreling. It restored my confidence, rekindled my stoke, and reminded me that I always surf best when I’m happy🤩
📷 @surf_maldives @matiasrivas___
Amazing first week in the Maldives! Epic waves and Amazing first week in the Maldives! Epic waves and good vibes ❤️😎🌊
Leaning in. It comes so naturally to me in surfing Leaning in. It comes so naturally to me in surfing, but feels so much harder in life. To hold it together even as you’re touching the bottom. To stay focused on where you want to go even if you might not get there. To leverage your power and trust that it’s enough. To know that you will be ok no matter what. Leaning in to the bottom turn is what sends you back up to the top🏄‍♀️

I’m heading to the Maldives next week, looking forward to warm waves, new friends and quality time with my greatest teacher 🌊
Proud to catch this lingcod today💪 I’ve been Proud to catch this lingcod today💪 I’ve been working on hunting caves and ledges, tuning my gear and mapping out areas I want to focus on. It finally paid off 🔱🐟🍣
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